Getting to Machu Picchu – The Cheaper Method

Due to the expensive tourist train between Ollaytaytambo and Agues Calientes ($40-60 each way), many tourists seek the cheap, ‘alternative’ route to Machu Picchu. Agues Calientes is the small town below Machu Picchu. The alternative route is mentioned briefly in the Lonely Planet and many similar resources say that you need to leave Cusco at 8pm, wake up at 2am, take taxis at 4am etc. We did this alternative route in the daytime, without traveling at such an unsociable (possibly unsafe) hour. It involves getting to Santa Maria, then to Santa Teresa, then to the railway track (Hydroelectric), and then walking to Agues Calientes.

Packing List
-    Insect Repellent
-    Flashlight
-    Cash (there is one ATM in Agues Calientes but occasionally it doesn’t work)
-    Water and Snacks
-    Passport (checked upon entering Machu Picchu)

Day 1 (Cusco to Agues Calientes)
-    We left our big bags in our hostel in Cusco. We only traveled with a smallish pack to last a couple of days.
-    We took a taxi at 7am and asked the driver for the bus station that has buses to Quillabamba. The bus was scheduled for 8am.
-    The driver took us via the minibus stand, with numerous minibuses going to Santa Maria.
-    The minibus was 30 Soles ($10) for a 4 hour ride to Santa Maria and the proper bus was 20 Soles ($7) for an 8 hour ride. We chose the faster, more comfortable minibus which left at 7:30am.
-    At Santa Maria we took a taxi to Santa Teresa. There were many taxis all charging the same price of 10 Soles ($3).
-    At Santa Teresa we took another taxi to the ‘Hydroelectric/Train tracks’. The driver knew where we wanted to go. This taxi was 3 Soles each ($1)
-    We arrived at the start of a train track. We were warned to put on plenty of insect repellent because there are many sand flies that leave itchy bites. Occasionally a train does travel on the line but it gives plenty of warning to move out of the way.
-    We walked along the train track for 3 hours to Agues Calientes. It is a beautiful walk with pools along the way to swim in.
-    There is a range of hostels to choose from in Agues Calientes.
-    Tickets to Machu Picchu cannot be purchased near Machu Picchu, you have to buy them in Agues Calientes. Since the shop to buy tickets for Machu Picchu was not going to be open at 4am, we bought our tickets the day before. Tickets cost 124 Soles each (61 Soles for a student with valid ISIC card – so take your card if you have one). Tickets can be purchased up to 3 days in advance but can only be used for one day entry.

Day 2 (Agues Calientes to Machu Picchu)
-    We left the hostel at Agues Calientes at 4:00am for the 1 hour 15 minute walk up to Machu Picchu. It is dark and a flashlight is useful. It is a steep and tiring hike. The gates to Machu Picchu do not open until 6am but only the first 400 people can get tickets to Huana Picchu (Wayna Picchu). 200 people are allowed up to Huana Picchu at 7am and the other 200 people are allowed at 10am.
-    Huana Picchu takes about an hour to walk up to and another hour to walk down. It is steep, so not for everyone, but the views are spectacular.
-    There are buses that drive between Agues Calientes and Machu Picchu but the earliest is at 5:30am. These short trips cost a ridiculous $7 each way.
-    Although it is stated that food and drink cannot be taken into Machu Picchu, I never saw any bags searched. There is one café at Machu Picchu that is extremely expensive ($12 a burger). To save money, I’d definitely recommend taking drinks and snacks up to Machu Picchu with you.
-    They do ask to see you passport on entering Machu Picchu, so take it with you.
-    We took photographs soon after entering Machu Picchu (especially from the popular viewpoints) as the site fills quickly with tourists.
-    We left Machu Picchu at about 3:00pm and arrived back at our hostel shortly after 4:00pm.

Day 3 (Agues Calientes to Cusco)
-    We left Agues Calientes at around 9:30am for the walk back along the train tracks. Again, plenty of insect repellent is recommended.
-    There were taxis at the end of the train line that offered to take us all the way to Santa Maria for only 10 Soles.
-    At Santa Maria we waited a short while for a mini bus to take us back to Cusco. Again, 30 soles for the 4 hour journey.
-    We arrived back to Cusco at about 7pm.